Over the Pyrenees!

May 15, 2019

At 9:00 a.m. of our second Camino day, our shuttle dropped us at the Statue de la Vierge de Biakorri, last seen yesterday afternoon. I gave the statue a little wave, whispering, “I’m so glad you watch over the shepherds in this beautiful alpine section of the earth.”

La Vierge de Biakorri

The sun kissed our hat brims as blue sky arched overhead. Cool breezes playfully slipped between jacket and neck. Amazing weather escorted us through the Pyrenees.

The track led past empty grass covered slopes with an occasional herd of sheep seen far away across the undulating green.

A couple hours of walking brought us to the edge of a stand of trees. Jay, consulting the guidebook, told me we would be hiking through the largest stand of beech trees in Europe. I took a picture of the beginning of this awesome forest.

Beech trees!

Our path followed ancient tracks used by shepherds and armies. As we entered the beech forest, our feet were cushioned by several inches of leaves. What a treat!

At Lepoeder Pass, we were rewarded with another outstanding view. Our path then took a steep plunge, dropping 1,500 feet of elevation in two miles.

Ronceveaux has welcomed pilgrims since the 12th century. The church and dormitories see tens of thousands of seekers each year.

First glimpse of the pilgrim haven of Ronceveaux.

When we arrived, the entryway was jammed with tired, dirty hikers. Two hundred pilgrims had crossed the Pyrenees on this beautiful day, and they all had hopes of renting a bed for their tired bodies. We were given a colored tag by harried volunteers, and told that we had about an hour’s wait until our color group was called. A sign on the wall summed up the situation in five languages: “Be calm. You will be helped.”

Eventually, eight euros each gave us beds for the night. Eight bunks (16 beds) crowded into our room, with barely enough space to squeeze between, especially while toting a pack. A bathroom with two toilets, two sinks, and two tiny shower stalls served about 40 people at our end of the building. Everything was sparkling clean, and I enjoyed my very fast shower!

At 7:00 p.m. we went to another part of the complex for a pilgrim dinner (10 euros each). With dizzying efficiency, two hundred people were served a well cooked meal of zucchini soup, pasta with tomato sauce, fish, french fries, and cake for dessert. I took a picture of part of the room.

Following dinner, a special pilgrim mass was offered at the cathedral. Four priests presided, singing part of the ceremony with harmonious voices. I’m sad to say that I couldn’t understand any of the Spanish. Nevertheless, it was interesting to observe, and the cathedral was truly beautiful.

Though I was mentally prepared to sleep in a room full of strangers, the reality of so many bodies in such a small space made me wonder if I would ever fall asleep. Fortunately, exhaustion took over, and I knew nothing until morning. Not exactly a restful night, but certainly a good way to bring home the connection between our modern life and 12th century pilgrims.

Two nights, fifteen miles, and a mountain range made a good start to our Camino de Santiago adventure!

8 thoughts on “Over the Pyrenees!

  1. Wow! Not sure that would be good for those of us who have to get up during the night several times! 🙂 Glad you are doing well! Thanks for sharing! Most enjoyable!


  2. Hello to you two lucky pilgrims,… experiencing the trails and accommodations of 12th Century beauty. Thank you for sharing this ancient outing. Your colorful words make me wish I was with you. May your journey continue to be special, day by day…..with blessings.


  3. Sarah, so thankful you are recovering! Enjoy your new adventure!
    Made me think of the book I read recently – I’ll Push You: A Journey of 500 Miles, Two Best Friends, and One Wheelchair
    Book by Justin Skeesuck and Patrick Gray
    Hope you get to read it when you get back.
    Blessings and more happy trails,
    “Hope” from AT (sheri webster)


    1. Oh my gosh, Jay and I read it before we left for this adventure! What a story! It is amazing, what those two friends did! We think of their experiences nearly every day as we climbed flights of stairs or deal with the elements! That was a very inspirational book.


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