Wind!

April 6, 2018

The wind whirled above while we slept peacefully in a protected spot at Strawberry Camp Tentsite, high in the San Jacinto Mtns. Little did we know what the wind was bringing as we slumbered!

Morning dawned with blue skies, the sun sparkling through pines across the ridge top. Spectacular views lured us to walk slowly, stopping often to look out across steep drop offs as the trail meandered along the top of the ridges.

We stopped to fill and treat water from a spouting stream, the headwaters of the North Fork of the San Jacinto River. It boggled my mind to think of this cheerful dancing rivulet flowing 42 miles, collecting more streams but never reaching the Pacific Ocean, instead emptying into Lake Elsinore, a part of the land-locked Great Basin.

Collecting water from the headwaters of the San Jacinto River.

The wind, a cold and persistent presence all day, gained even more power in the afternoon. We were descending Fuller Ridge, hiking miles and miles of switchbacks, making our way down the armpit of the mountain slope. This half circle in the landscape caught the wind in a giant eddy, swirling around us, sending me staggering across the path, first one way, then another.

As evening loomed, we found a flat spot, partly protected by bushes. Jay laid out the tent, pounding stakes deep into the soil. As we lifted the roof of the tent, a gust gleefully ripped tent stakes out of the ground, turning our shelter into a sail.

We consulted the map and decided to hike on, hoping the tent site in half a mile would provide more shelter. It was a vain hope. As we rounded the slope, the wind whipped wildly across the landscape, threatening to shred any fabric we might try to put up. We kept hiking.

A mile later, with dusk taking serious hold of the day, we came upon another campsite, slightly sheltered with a couple of boulders. Once again we laid out the tent. This time Jay weighted our tent stakes with huge hunks of rock. The wind teasingly backed off long enough for us to get both tent poles inserted, then, with a powerful puff of air, lifted the tent like a balloon, trailing tent stakes wildly behind.

We decided to dig out our flashlights and keep on hiking. Jay saw several rats. Twice I spied fat mice scurrying across the dark trail. Then one mouse ran straight up a boulder beside my shoulder. I am convinced that rodents know no fear, and these mice exemplified that opinion.

Suddenly, around a corner, my flashlight beam caught the form of a three foot yellow rattlesnake. I stopped, hoping the light would scare the snake. Unfortunately, he didn’t stop, slithering down the trail as if he owned it. I backed up, bumping into Jay.

“What is it?” Jay asked.

“S-s-s-snake!” I stuttered, my hands flapping in agitation, my feet trying to levitate me off the trail completely.

“Do you want me to go first?” Jay asked kindly.

I didn’t want either of us to go, but since Jay was volunteering, I cravenly stepped behind him.

The snake continued its chosen course toward us. We hugged the outer edge of the trail, our heels hanging in space as we strove to let the rattler have most of the path. As the snake came upwind, it suddenly smelled us, and let out a warning rattle. Despite the fact that the snake was behind me, my feet took charge of my body and began running. Jay didn’t run, which quickly caused a collision between us. I wanted to ask, “Why aren’t you running?” But Jay already knew my status as a scaredy-cat. The Dutch saying, “een kat in het nauw maakt rare sprongen” (a threatened cat makes odd jumps), definitely described me at the moment!

After descending 8,070 ft, we passed a water faucet at the base of the mountain. Several hikers were cowboy camped on the pavement, gear strewn nearby. We continued, hoping to find shelter from the wind. The further we progressed on the valley floor, the stronger the wind became. By now it was near gale force, beating against us incessantly.

At 11:00 p.m., after hiking 23.5 miles, we gave up and lay down in a sandy ditch with just our sleeping bags. The wind could have been jet engines roaring overhead. It pulled and tugged at my sleeping bag, threatening to sail away with it, but I tucked the edges firmly around me and just dared that wind to part us! It was a long seven hours until sunrise, and I didn’t get much sleep, but at least my legs got to rest.

April 7, 2018

I viewed the sunrise through sleep deprived, sand-crusted eyes. Gladly I shook the sand out of my sleeping bag. Only 2.7 miles to Interstate 10 and civilization!

An hour and a half later, Jay and I were hitching a ride to Banning, CA. A school principal with the trail name of Anonymous dropped us at a Travelodge. It was truly amazing how, once again, our circumstances had swung from peril to luxury in a matter of hours!

Many Ways to Scale the San Jacintos

April 2, 2018

At the top of the San Jacinto Mtns, a nine mile section of the PCT has been closed since a fire swept through in 2013. Fire is a very real presence in the forests of the arid West, and affects many sections of the PCT. This first closure for north-bound thru-hikers presents several choices for negotiating around the nine missing miles of trail.

Discussions began at the Paradise Cafe, one mile off the PCT on Hwy 74. Hikers congregated at this oasis, eating delicious hamburgers and tossing plans around. The fire closure sits high on top of the mountains, 17.5 miles from the cafe. Some hikers chose to skip the whole section, hitching a ride down Hwy 74 to the town of Idyllwild where they could access the PCT via several side trails. Other hikers decided to continue hiking the trail, heading towards the mountain ridges, getting closer to the actual PCT closure at the Spitler Peak Trail junction.

Jay and I had already discussed our hiking strategy for this trip. We liked the idea of leaving a continuous set of footprints whenever feasible. This particular PCT fire closure had several hiking alternatives, so our route continued up the PCT.

Jay hikes through Penrod Canyon.

We hiked 12.6 miles today, first through Penrod Canyon with giant granite boulders, then we climbed steadily higher into the San Jacintos, walking through miles of drought tolerant shrubs and bushes. In the early evening, a side trail led us off the ridge line, down and around the mountain slope to a protected pocket of towering cedar trees fed by a crystal clear spring. The back country campsite of Cedar Springs was an oasis of comfort, and I happily fell asleep to the hooting of a very loud great horned owl!

April 3, 2018

Sunrise!

We woke to a glorious sunrise with beams of light slanting between cedar trunks still harboring dawn’s shadows.

Five miles up the trail we came upon a group of hikers at the Fobes Ranch Trail junction. Some of the younger hikers were considering following the Fobes Ranch Trail downhill, reaching Hwy 74 in 5.5 miles, then hitch hiking to Idyllwild. They could possibly be taking a shower in comfort within four hours or less.

Jay and I continued on, heading uphill another two miles to the PCT fire closure at Spitler Peak Trail junction, leaving the hiker group still discussing strategy. Two older hikers also headed uphill, Buckwheat and Julia. About a mile later, the rest of the younger hikers passed us one by one, effectively dispelling any stereotype of younger hikers taking the easy way out!

Seven miles down hill from the Spitler Peak Trail junction lies Hurkey Creek Park and Campground, once again offering showers and a quick ride along Hwy 74 to Idyllwild.

Jay and I continued 3 more miles, finally camping near a small spring a short half mile after Spitler Peak Trail joined the Mountain Fire Alternative, a PCT route around the fire closure on the mountain two thousand feet above us.

April 4, 2018

Today is our town day, with just 4.5 miles to hike to reach Idyllwild, with showers, electricity, groceries, clean clothes, and restaurants. Hurray!

April 5, 2018

After a comfortable night, we headed back to the PCT, following the South Ridge Trail, one of several trails connecting Idyllwild to the PCT. We climbed over 4,300 feet today, most of the climb happening gently across a myriad of switchbacks.

Tahquitz Peak Fire Lookout gave a 360 degree view of the San Jacinto mountain range. With gray clouds covering the sky and a fiercely cold wind urging us on, we didn’t linger long!

Tahquitz Peak Fire Lookout

From the lookout, the trail switchbacked downhill another half mile until finally joining the PCT at the northern point of the Fire Mountain closure. We reached Strawberry Camp Tentsite just before sundown. A dozen other hikers, having used several different trails from Idyllwild to rejoin the PCT, shared the campsite. We met Buckwheat again, having last seen him on the Spitler Peak Trail. Circumventing the nine mile closure had taken us two days and 21 miles, and imposed nearly one vertical mile of elevation change.

Easter Morning and Beyond

April 1, 2018

Easter morning! I woke early, wanting to take part in the ancient tradition of greeting the sunrise. Some of my earliest memories as a child on Easter include shivering in the pre-dawn light, waiting with my family to see the fiery orange sun breach the horizon.

I sat outside the tent, trying to meditate and pray a bit, wrestling with concerns deep in my heart.

A cottontail rabbit hopped by, intent upon its own rabbit business. A bird tuned up, lifting it’s beak to the sky.

Suddenly, as the great orange orb lifted above the easternmost limit of my sight, the surrounding hillsides were bathed in streams of light and color. The illumination lasted only a moment, then the sun ducked behind a thick layer of clouds. And Easter morning was over, the hillsides turning gray-green, the wind hinting at moisture in the air, leaving only a memory of glory surrounding me. My meditation had yielded insights as brief as the sunrise. But the wonder and beauty of those few light-filled moments lingered in my heart.

We hiked under cool clouds, happy to have shade on a desert exposed trail. Just past noon, we rounded a curve and suddenly saw a huge cache of water bottles, kindly provided by Trail Angel Mary. We gladly filled our empty bottles, writing notes of thanks in the trail journal.

A sign attached to the cache announced a free Easter dinner for all hikers, served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. at Mile 145.4, just two miles away! Jay and I looked at each other. It seemed too good to be true! Should we forego our trail lunch and beat feet to some trail magic?

Being a practical person when it comes to my stomach, I voted for eating half of a trail lunch, then going for the trail magic. Jay agreed, so we quickly gobbled a partial lunch, then headed onwards, two miles from an adventure!

The smell of roasting meat provided the first clue of our imminent destination. Our stomachs growled. Nothing in the desert had ever smelled that good! Twenty minutes later we saw a sign, guarded by an Easter duck.

We turned, and saw a crowd of hikers, seated under shady canopies. Trail Angel Mary and her friends were busily cooking steaks and salmon, along with delicious vegetables, ice water, lemonade, and wine, with Viennese coffee and berry tarts for desert!

This is Jay’s fourth thru-hike, and he has never seen a feast like we had today! Trail Angel Mary planned on 20 hikers and ended up serving 45 of us. Everyone seemed to get enough to eat, and there was much sharing of food, along with laughter and visiting.

Even the dog got enough as he blissfully chewed on steak bones!

After two hours of feasting, we thanked our hosts several times and waddled away.  My stomach, used to simple trail meals, thought it had died and gone to heaven. But even better than the food was the camaraderie we had enjoyed, thanks to the vision and generosity of Trail Angel Mary and her friends!

Eagle Rocks

March 30, 2018

Last night was spent on the edge of the vast grassy swath of Warner Springs Meadows. We could see for miles across the undulating grasslands. This morning, rising sunbeams gleamed on piles of white granitic rocks a half mile away. Eagle Rocks seemed to be the perfect place for breakfast!

When we reached this viewpoint, we climbed up on the stone “eagle’s” shoulder and sat, soaking in the early morning sunshine. As we quietly ate breakfast, small birds resumed their daily schedule. We watched, enchanted, as a rock wren lit upon a tall boulder, doing it’s characteristic bobbing motion. A lark sparrow from atop another stone let out a trill, throat swelling, beak tilted towards the sky. Meadow larks gave their liquid bubbling song from all around. We were surrounded by music!

Finishing breakfast, we reluctantly climbed down. At the base of the rocks, a friendly hiker named Edgar took our picture. Then we slowly headed towards the town of Warner Springs, still enjoying the symphony of bird song!

Do you see the stone eagle behind us?

We met several day hikers headed towards Eagle Rocks. One group stopped to talk, asking the usual questions. “Are you hiking the whole PCT?” “When did you start?” “Where will you finish?”

One woman asked a surprising question. “What are you going to do about Easter while you are on the trail?”

I hesitated a moment, my thoughts going back to this morning. “Sometimes on the trail, one must take special occasions when they happen. This morning, Eagle Rocks felt like Easter! It was so beautiful, with incredible bird song. What an affirmation of life! And after all, isn’t that what Easter is about? Celebrating the triumph of love and the renewal of life.”

The lady smiled, and the group hiked on, heading to their own life-affirming experience.

Warner Springs

Just a few miles north of Eagle Rocks is the small town of Warner Springs. Mid-morning found us following signs directing PCT hikers to the community center. This place is a hiker oasis, completely run by volunteers. Amenities include charging stations for cell phones, hiker food for sale, clean restrooms, shady tent sites, and private outdoor cubicals for taking bucket showers! A volunteer can sometimes give rides to the post office, saving tired hikers two miles of walking.

The volunteers here use the proceeds from their sales to fund educational opportunities for the people in this small community. Talk about a life-affirming purpose!

As we regretfully left this haven, the trail took us along Agua Caliente Creek. Huge oaks gave welcoming shade in the hot afternoon. Bird song entertained us. Water loving flowers brightened the hike. It seemed that every part of this day gave an affirmation of life!

Now THIS Is Desert!

March 28, 2018

To leave the town of Julian, we stood in front of the post office, sticking out hopeful thumbs. A man in a truck pulled over just to assure us that we were in the right place, and he was certain we’d get a ride soon! Sure enough, Isa with her young son offered a ride down the mountain to Scissors Crossing. “We like hearing the hiker stories,” she explained.

As we stepped onto the PCT again, I felt we had crossed a portal. It was as if the visible rift of Earthquake Valley extended into the air, making an invisible barrier that moisture couldn’t breach. Bushes became skeletal sticks. Barrel cactus wore crowns of yellow buds. Ocotillo sported flame red blooms on their tips. Cholla masqueraded as fuzzy friends, only showing their spiny nature when examined closely. Prickly pear gave hints of red fruits on its edges. We even saw a couple of Joshua trees. Cactus reigned supreme between rocks and sand!

A dry landscape, still full of beauty!

We hiked under sapphire blue sky, climbing into the San Felipe Hills. The trail contoured around ridges, above the edges of draws, in and out, back and forth. As we gained altitude, bushes and other flowers gradually returned. I knew I would be seeing more desert soon, but for now I was content with my morning in “true” desert!

Silky blossoms crown prickly spines!
12 feet of dry agave stalk makes an exclamation point on the landscape.

Betwixt and Between

March 23, 2018

Rain tapped on our tent this morning, waking us gently. It stopped while we ate breakfast and packed up camp. As we began to hike, the clouds lowered, with a fine spray of water materializing around us!

Cold misty clouds play peek-a-boo with the sun!

The sun broke through around 10:00 a.m., bringing warmth, blue sky, bird song. A hummingbird posed on a tree branch. Flowers bloomed, lining the path with a heady aroma.

As we approached Lake Morena County Park, a sign informed us of trail magic in the campground. A man named Possum in a fancy motorhome handed out snacks, water, Bibles, and good wishes.

Trail Magic at Lake Morena County Park

March 24, 2018

Today being Saturday, we met many day hikers.

Megan, with her dog Buddy, stopped to admire our packs. “Those are the smallest packs I’ve ever seen on thru-hikers!”

We, in turn, admired her dog, a mixture of German shepherd, Doberman, and black lab. Well mannered and content, he obviously thrived under Megan’s care.

Our trail climbed 3,000 feet today, entering a zone of pine trees and cold wind. The end of the day found us at Burnt Rancheria Campground, sharing a campsite with seven other thru-hikers to save money. Normally this would be an opportunity to talk and visit, but the icy knife-edged breeze and plummeting temperatures drove us to huddle in our tents!

Hiker tents sharing a spot at Burnt Rancheria Campground.

March 25, 2018

Last night at the campground I took the opportunity to wash a few articles of clothing, expecting them to dry overnight in the arid mountain air. After a night with temperatures in the 20s, I had the unique ‘pleasure’ of slipping on freeze-dried clothes! Brrrr!

We hiked into the town of Mt. Laguna, gladly ate a hot breakfast at the Blue Jay Cafe, then bought three days of food in the local market.

As we hiked onward, we were amused to see the younger, faster hikers pass us one by one. Suddenly, we came upon the whole crew, clustered around a cooler full of trail magic snacks. Traffic jam on the trail!

Jay and I took a quarter mile side trip to get water at a rest area with a tank for horses. Much to our dismay, we found the water tank dry, with a broken valve! With 10 more miles until the next water, we were prepared to get very thirsty. Suddenly, a family drove into the parking lot. Jay began talking with them, and before I knew it, they were offering us water bottles from their trunk! Amazing!

True trail angels – giving water to parched hikers!

We continued on, happy to have water for lunch and the afternoon.

Lunch with a view!

March 26, 2018

As we hike, I feel we are between desert and forest. Blooming bushes intermingle with cactus. Clouds scud across the sky, making rain a possibility. We’re not in the desert yet, but the progression of plant life gets steadily drier.

Prickly pear, cholla cactus, and Mojave ceanothus mingle in this land of betwixt and between.

We camp on a high ridge, sheltered from the wind by a few thin bushes.

Home sweet home – for this evening!

March 27, 2018

Today the trail heads downhill, dropping 2,000 feet of altitude with a few miles of switchbacks. Scissors Crossing is our goal, where we plan to hitchhike into the small town of Julian. After six days of hiking, I can hardly wait to take a shower!

Getting ready to head into Earthquake Valley. Scissors Crossing and the town of Julian awaits!

Upon reaching Scissors Crossing, we stick out our thumbs and are delighted when the third car pulls over. Marie and Ogden from Quebec are camping across a bit of the Southwest. They had heard that Julian had fabulous pie.

Later that afternoon, after a shower, we tried the pie at Mom’s Restaurant. Wow! Jay asked, “How do you make such incredible pie?”

The reply was prompt, “Love and magic!”

This Is No Desert!

March 22, 2018

The hike begins! I could hardly wait to see southwestern desert with cactus, rattlesnakes, sand, and rocks!

We left San Diego via the 7:30 a.m. trolley ($2.50 per person), which took us to the edge of the city, the El Cajon Transit Center. There we wandered for several minutes, trying to make sense of all the bus stops. Suddenly, I noticed a young man grinning at me. As I smiled back, I saw that he and his companion both had hiker backpacks. The young man, seeing he had caught my attention, gestured us over. “This is it,” he said. “You’re looking for the MTS Rural bus to Campo, right?” And so we met our first two PCT hikers, Lost Dog and Texas Teacher.

Lost Dog, Texas Teacher, and Jay on the bus to Campo!

We just had enough time to use the restroom (50 cents per person) and the bus arrived. The driver was very patient while we juggled packs and money ($10.00 per person). “Hiking the PCT, eh? You’ll be riding all the way to Campo, then.”

Two hours on the bus gave us plenty of time to get acquainted with the other hikers. Lost Dog described himself as a PCT enthusiast. He had hiked most of Oregon and Washington, and this year was set to check off a 350 mile swath of the southern California PCT. Texas Teacher had just finished teaching for eight months in Hong Kong. “I need to breathe some clean air and see a whole lot of wilderness right now,” he told us. “This hike should help me remember what is important in our world.”

We arrived at Campo mid-morning, making a beeline from the bus to the convenience store for a quick treat of chocolate milk. Then it was time to hoist our packs and hike two miles south to the PCT monument marking the southern terminus.

Texas Teacher, being young and long of leg, quickly out-distanced the rest of us. I was still south bound when he came trotting north, having already signed in at the monument.

“It was nice meeting you,” I smiled. “At the rate you’re going, I’ll probably never see you again!”

“Oh!” Texas Teacher paused mid-stride. “Well, God bless!” Then he was gone, full of anticipation to begin his big adventure.

At the monument, Jay and I met Phantom, a PCTA volunteer. We chatted for a few minutes, signed the trail journal, had our picture taken, and started walking north at 11:30 a.m.

We begin!

The day was cloudy and cool, a great temperature for hiking in the desert. As we walked, we saw blue ceanothus in bloom, sending out an intense scent. Pink manzanita bells attracted bees. Fire engine red leguminosae vines climbed among the trees and bushes. Yucca buds stood tall, ready to burst into huge pompoms of white blossoms. The trail climbed up, curving above a green valley with a small lake on one end. As the clouds let loose a few sprinkles, I sighed with happiness to be surrounded by so much beauty.

Blue ceanothus
Manzanita in bloom.

“This is awesome!” I told Jay.

“Yes,” he laughed. “But it sure ain’t no desert!”

Green, green, green!

We hiked for several hours, enjoying the scenery.

One thousandth of the way to Canada!

As evening approached, the trail took us on top of a ridge, with a cold wind whipping across the bushes. We passed Lost Dog wrestling the wind for possession of his tent. Two other hikers were also setting up tents, but it felt too exposed for our comfort.

Finally the trail dipped to the sheltered side of the ridge, leaving the wind whistling above us. I eyed the clouds across the valley as we searched for a flat sheltered spot. Was that really rain under those clouds? Just before the clouds descended, we found the perfect site, a tent-sized circle carved out of the surrounding bushes, with white sand as the ground cover. The tent went up, the rain came down, and we dove inside, happy to lay in dry comfort while water streamed off our tent, soaking into the sand. As I fell asleep to the lullaby of drumming raindrops, I had to agree with Jay. This is no desert!

Priorities

March 19, 2018

So many things to do, when preparing for a long hike. How does a person prioritize?

Our first month after last year’s AT thru-hike focused upon recovery. Our bodies were ready for an extended rest, as well as some specific rehabilitation. Thanks to a fortuitous find from our son’s friend, the Trigger Point Therapy Workbook, by Clair Davies, gave us direction for healing painful tendons and muscles.

The next three months, as we purged our belongings and sold our house, we also ate like we were still hiking. We did take time to get permits and maps, but this only took one afternoon with a computer. Planning a few resupplies took a couple of evenings. Reassuring friends and family members has taken several sessions. But our over-riding highest priority has been taking daily hikes to reaffirm our connection with nature and remind our bodies of their main job in life – burning calories in order to support our eating habits!

An eight mile loop which includes Genoa Falls near our former home in Gardnerville is a favorite destination, even with a frozen trail.
Wild horses at Hidden Valley Regional Park, near Reno, NV are a frequent sight.
Snow at Hidden Valley Regional Park doesn’t stop us.
We kept hiking even while visiting my parents in Tennessee. Blooming cherry trees heralded spring at Sandy Springs Park.

Pilgrimage

March 14, 2017

“When that Aprill, with his shoures soote

The droghte of March hath perced to the roote…

And smale foweles maken melodye,

That slepen al the nyght with open ye

(So priketh hem Nature in hir corages);

Thanne longen folk to goon on pilgrimages”

-Chaucer, Canterbury Tales

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Prologue

(When April with showers sweet, the drought of March has pierced to the root…

And small birds make melody, that sleep all night with open eye

So goaded by Nature in their hearts, then folk long to go on pilgrimages)

For centuries, perhaps for all of Homo sapiens history, humans have made pilgrimages of one kind or another. Dictionary.com defines a pilgrimage as “any long journey, especially one undertaken as a quest or for a votive purpose, as to pay homage.”   Wait a minute, what does that actually mean?  A quest, as defined by that same dictionary, is a long and arduous search for something. I continue to rely upon the dictionary as I learn that a votive purpose can be an action performed in fulfillment of a vow, or in gratitude or devotion.

Long journeys, arduous searches, clinging to a purpose, these activities transcend customs and boundaries.  Many cultures have their youth partake in a rite of passage, seeking inner enlightenment or a path upon which to direct their lives.  Perhaps I am a late bloomer, only now beginning to think of my adventures in terms of pilgrimage.

I love how Chaucer describes Spring as being the time one most wants to begin a long journey, a quest, a pilgrimage. When I hear birds singing, and see flowers beginning to bloom, my feet long to tread woodland paths, searching for … what?

On March 22, as Jay and I begin the Pacific Crest Trail, I hope to keep this idea of pilgrimage in my heart, staying open to new experiences to stretch my inner self. In this, I will be joining about 6,000 PCT permit holders – those planning to hike more than 500 miles of the 2,650 mile trail. Many of these hikers know they are on pilgrimage, they are actively searching for answers in their lives. Others may not begin the hike as a pilgrimage, but will find, by the end, that their hike was performed in fulfillment of a promise, to express appreciation, or acknowledge a sense of new-found spirituality. I know I am blessed, to be able to participate in this grand adventure.

Blessed are those whose strength is in You, whose hearts are set on pilgrimage.

-Psalm 84:5, Holy Bible, New International Version